- 1”x 4” board
- Skill saw
- Cornice Padding/Batting
- Spray Adhesive (Masco #200 Bond Heavy Duty Adhesive Spray or 3M Insulation 78 Spray Adhesive)
- Cardboard tack strip
- Drill with 1/8" bit
- 1-1/2” screws
- Staple gun
- Staples for staple gun (two sizes- ¼” leg and ½” leg)
- Glue gun & glue stick
- Fabric of your choice
- 4/32” cotton piping covered with fabric of your choice
- 2-1/2" Angle Irons
The following instructions are shown for the Lace-up Valance.
With slight adjustments, these instructions could also be used for the Abigail Valance
Lay out the valance pieces A on a flat surface to determine the length to cut your 1x4” board. Mark the board.
Using skill saw, cut the board.
Out of the leftover board, cut 2 pieces 2-3/4” long. This will form the “return” for the valance (the part that returns to the wall).
Place the 2-3/4” board pieces at each end and using an 1/8” bit, drill 2 holes.
Attach at each end of the board, using 1-1/2” screws as shown.
Cut a strip of batting the exact width and length of your board, making sure to cut enough to wrap the sides as shown
Cover your work surface and attach the batting to the board using foam adhesive. We used Masco #200 Bond Head Duty Spray Adhesive. You can use any kind of spray adhesive.
Cut a piece of decorative fabric 10” long and wide enough to wrap around to the sides of the board as shown in the next picture.
If your board is overly long, you may have to put a seam in the fabric (make sure to match the fabric pattern!)
Make sure you have positioned the design on your fabric appropriately.
Turn the board over to double check the placement of the design.
Using a staple gun with ¼” staples, cover your board neatly with the fabric, making sure all your stapling is on the back side of the board. Sort of like wrapping a gift!
Take your covered piping (see instructions in the Lace-Up Pattern) and staple it to one end of the board as shown above.
Stretch your piping out across the board and staple at the other end of the board, pulling taunt. Make sure the piping overhangs the board face slightly.
Continue stapling the piping on the board spacing staples about 3-4” apart.
Make a neat tuck at the corner and continue stapling.
Put one last staple in at the back edge of the board.
Trim the piping as close to the edge of the board as possible and finish off with a dab white glue or hot glue. It will dry clear and prevent the fabric from raveling.
Repeat the process, stapling the piping on the opposite side of the board.
You will probably need to change your staples out to a longer size at this point because you will be stapling through several layers.
Lay out the valance pieces A and staple onto the board.
Place pattern pieces C on the “return” part of the board and staple into place.
Next take pattern piece B and fold in half lengthwise. Snip a ½” cut as shown. The snip will allow you to turn the corner on the board.
Staple pattern piece B onto board turning the corner as shown.
Next, cut a piece of the cardboard upholstery stripping the length of the board and staple through all thicknesses. Make sure the tack strip is even with the face of the board.
Cut two small pieces of the tack strip for the sides (return) of the board and staple into place
Wa-la! A nice, neat board mount.
Screw 2-1/2" angle irons underneath each leg of the board as shown. Attach the angle irons to the wall with screws. (Fabric is removed from the valance for clarity purposes)
We left off the laces and grommet part of the valance