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Materials
needed:
- 1”x 4” board
- Skill saw
- Cornice Padding/Batting
- Spray Adhesive (Masco #200 Bond
Heavy Duty Adhesive Spray or 3M Insulation 78 Spray Adhesive)
- Cardboard tack strip
- Drill with 1/8" bit
- 1-1/2” screws
- Staple gun
- Staples for staple gun (two
sizes- ¼” leg and ½” leg)
- Glue gun & glue stick
- Fabric of your choice
- 4/32” cotton piping covered
with fabric of your choice
- 2-1/2" Angle Irons
The following instructions are shown for the Lace-up Valance. | With slight adjustments, these instructions could also be used for the Abigail Valance |
Lay out the valance pieces A on a flat surface to determine the length to cut your 1x4” board. Mark the board. | Using skill saw, cut the board. |
Out of the leftover board, cut 2 pieces 2-3/4” long. This will form the “return” for the valance (the part that returns to the wall). | Place the 2-3/4” board pieces at each end and using an 1/8” bit, drill 2 holes. |
Attach at each end of the board, using 1-1/2” screws as shown. | Cut a strip of batting the exact width and length of your board, making sure to cut enough to wrap the sides as shown |
Cover your work surface and attach the batting to the board using foam adhesive. We used Masco #200 Bond Head Duty Spray Adhesive. You can use any kind of spray adhesive. | Cut a piece of decorative fabric 10” long and wide enough to wrap around to the sides of the board as shown in the next picture. |
If your board is overly long, you may have to put a seam in the fabric (make sure to match the fabric pattern!) | Make sure you have positioned the design on your fabric appropriately. |
Turn the board over to double check the placement of the design. | Using a staple gun with ¼” staples, cover your board neatly with the fabric, making sure all your stapling is on the back side of the board. Sort of like wrapping a gift! |
Take your covered piping (see instructions in the Lace-Up Pattern) and staple it to one end of the board as shown above. | Stretch your piping out across the board and staple at the other end of the board, pulling taunt. Make sure the piping overhangs the board face slightly. |
Continue stapling the piping on the board spacing staples about 3-4” apart. | Make a neat tuck at the corner and continue stapling. |
Put one last staple in at the back edge of the board. | Trim the piping as close to the edge of the board as possible and finish off with a dab white glue or hot glue. It will dry clear and prevent the fabric from raveling. |
Repeat the process, stapling the piping on the opposite side of the board. | You will probably need to change your staples out to a longer size at this point because you will be stapling through several layers. |
Lay out the valance pieces A and staple onto the board. | Place pattern pieces C on the “return” part of the board and staple into place. |
Next take pattern piece B and fold in half lengthwise. Snip a ½” cut as shown. The snip will allow you to turn the corner on the board. | Staple pattern piece B onto board turning the corner as shown. |
Next, cut a piece of the cardboard upholstery stripping the length of the board and staple through all thicknesses. Make sure the tack strip is even with the face of the board. | Cut two small pieces of the tack strip for the sides (return) of the board and staple into place |
Wa-la! A nice, neat board mount. | Screw 2-1/2" angle irons underneath each leg of the board as shown. Attach the angle irons to the wall with screws. (Fabric is removed from the valance for clarity purposes) |
We left off the laces and grommet part of the valance |